The following are hints and suggestions for obtaining the best results when applying Rylard Special Marine Coatings on new work and when reconditioning. These are applicable to similar products.
The paint system of any boat serves two important purposes. First it must protect the surface underneath against the rigours of sun, air and water, and secondly it must be decorative. To achieve these objectives too much attention cannot be given to the preparatory work.
First remove all loose parts and dirt. If the boat has been in salt water it is essential that it should be thoroughly washed with plenty of fresh water to remove the deposit of salt. Likewise fresh water should be used at all times after flatting. Examine the surface carefully for any patches of broken film such as scratches and abrasions. Rub down adjacent to any such injuries and touch up with primer or undercoat. Having allowed these patches to dry, carefully flat the whole of the boat. If the old paint is of doubtful character, or in very bad condition, it is advisable to remove the whole of this with paint and varnish remover and afterwards wash down with water or solvent to remove all the paint remover from out of any cracks and crevices. If a remover containing wax is used, great care must be taken to ensure that all the wax is removed before painting is commenced. For GRP craft ensure that the surface is free from wax or other parting agents. Flat with abrasive paper, wash with solvents such as White Spirits to remove any traces of wax which may have been rubbed into the surface during flatting.
The boat is now ready for its priming coat. Lead base primers are not recommended. The correct primer for the surface being coated should be applied in a thin even coat. For resin bonded marine plywood, it is recommended that the priming coat should be well thinned, particular care being taken to see that all seams, bolt heads and any other regularities in the surface are adequately covered - or use a coat of thinned Rylard Varnish which should be allowed to dry at least overnight. Use a filler to stop up any surface imperfections. Most fillers should, under good weather conditions, dry off within four hours of application allowing it to be rubbed down with dry glass paper. A second coat of primer should be applied and again allowed to dry overnight. When this coat is dry examine the boat to check up on any stopping that may have been missed. Rub down with dry glass paper and carefully wipe down with a damp wash-leather.
If the boat is to be painted in more than one colour, first mark out the scheme in chalk on the hull. Apply the undercoat (Rylard Plus Undercoating Enamel) in a thin even coat. When dry examine carefully to see that the colour is solid in appearance and the whole of the work is well covered. If it looks at all uneven apply a second coat. To avoid disappointment it is most important to be sure that this solid appearance is obtained. Rub down the undercoat with a fine grade (400A) of wet and dry paper, using plenty of fresh water, until blemishes in the undercoat have been removed - but, avoid rubbing through the paint film to the bare wood or gel-coat. Wash down with water and sponge and dry off with a wash leather. Leave the job long enough to allow the water to thoroughly dry out. Failure to do this involves the risk of next coat peeling off through poor adhesion to the damp surface. The whole of the work should now be completely covered by a continuous even film, smooth and hard dry. Remember that the satisfactory protection of the boat is largely dependent on the care that has been taken over this preparatory work.
You are now ready for the finishing coat. A full coat of the selected paint (such as Rylard Finishing Enamel) should be applied, but be sure it is an even coat as an uneven coat promotes sagging. This can best be done by brushing the enamel in one direction, then without applying more, brush across the original direction and finally lay off lightly in the same direction as first applied. Do not use too soft a brush or one too long in the bristle, or difficulty will be experienced in obtaining an even film. Avoid using a new brush for the finished enamel. If the preparatory work is solid it should not be necessary to apply a second finishing coat.
Easily applied antifouling composition is available in the traditional red/brown shade from Rylard and can be obtained in certain other colours. Care must be taken that the correct primer is selected. Best results are obtained on new work when two coats of primer and two coats of undercoat are used, followed by two coats of antifouling, such as ‘Double Shield’. The second coat must be allowed to dry for a minimum of 12 hours before launching but can be left for a longer period if required.
Some general principles on painting should be observed. Do not use salt water when washing down the boat immediately prior to painting. When dry the salt crystals left behind will promote blistering. Be sure the paint is well stirred before using and, if any skin has formed due to the paint standing in an open tin, strain carefully. It is not recommended that thinners be added to the finishing enamel unless absolutely essential. All paint kettles should be clean and wiped free from dust before using. Two thin coats are better then one thick one.
Rylard may be used in any climate and under the most varied conditions, but application during damp and foggy weather should be avoided. Varnish should never be applied to woodwork which has been standing in hot sun, nor be left to dry in very hot sunshine. There is, of course, no objection to moderate warmth for drying purposes. Best results are obtained on a clear bright day with the temperature at about 65°F. Rylard will dry extremely low temperatures in freely ventilated atmosphere, but fumes from oil stoves, gas, coal and coke fires must be avoided. The one-pack varnish has easy to apply characteristics, it is quick drying and will only accept White Spirits as a thinner. It is not recommended for application over teak or linseed oiled surfaces.
All surfaces to be varnished must be perfectly dry. Whether varnishing new woodwork or re-coating old the final result will be more satisfactory by a little extra preparation. A greasy surface is fatal. Grease must be totally removed. If a detergent is used to assist this operation, in turn great care must be taken to ensure all the detergent is removed. When rubbing down, finish with either finest glass paper, not coarser than No1, or preferably wet and dry paper No 360 used wet. When using glass paper do not apply a new sheet without having first lightly rubbed the face of it against another piece of glass paper. This will remove any high spots of grit which would otherwise leave scoremarks on the woodwork. Do not fail to remove all traces of dust after rubbing down.
This may best be done by vacuuming followed by a rag dampened with White Spirits. A “wooly” patch in the grain (such as is frequently found in Mahogany) is best dealt with by giving it a priming coat of varnish as described below. When the varnish has set hard, rub down the fine pieces of grain which protrude through it. The priming film has the effect of setting the base of the offending “whiskers” which otherwise continue to pull up regardless of any amount of papering. There will be no sign of them in the following coat of varnish.
Please contact our technical office for more information.
Please contact our technical office for more information.
