Application Hints
and suggestions
The following are hints and suggestions for
obtaining the best results when applying Rylard Special Marine Coatings
on new work and when reconditioning. These are applicable to similar
products.
Paint -
PREPARATORY WORK - The paint system of any boat serves two important
purposes. First it must protect the surface underneath against the
rigours of sun, air and water, and secondly it must be decorative.
To achieve these objectives too much attention cannot be given to
the preparatory work.
First remove all loose parts
and dirt. If the boat has been in salt water it is essential that
it should be thoroughly washed with plenty of fresh water to remove
the deposit of salt. Likewise fresh water should be used at all
times after flatting. Examine the surface carefully for any patches
of broken film such as scratches and abrasions. Rub down adjacent
to any such injuries and touch up with primer or undercoat. Having
allowed these patches to dry, carefully flat the whole of the boat.
If the old paint is of doubtful character, or in very bad condition,
it is advisable to remove the whole of this with paint and varnish
remover and afterwards wash down with water or solvent to remove
all the paint remover from out of any cracks and crevices. If a
remover containing wax is used, great care must be taken to ensure
that all the wax is removed before painting is commenced. For GRP
craft ensure that the surface is free from wax or other parting
agents. Flat with abrasive paper, wash with solvents such as White
Spirits to remove any traces of wax which may have been rubbed into
the surface during flatting.
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PRIMING AND FILLING - The boat is now ready for its priming coat.
Lead base primers are not recommended. The correct primer for the
surface being coated should be applied in a thin even coat. For
resin bonded marine plywood, it is recommended that the priming
coat should be well thinned, particular care being taken to see
that all seams, bolt heads and any other regularities in the surface
are adequately covered - or use a coat of thinned Rylard Varnish
which should be allowed to dry at least overnight. Use a filler
to stop up any surface imperfections. Most fillers should, under
good weather conditions, dry off within four hours of application
allowing it to be rubbed down with dry glass paper. A second coat
of primer should be applied and again allowed to dry overnight.
When this coat is dry examine the boat to check up on any stopping
that may have been missed. Rub down with dry glass paper and carefully
wipe down with a damp wash-leather.
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UNDERCOATING - If the boat is to be painted in more than one colour,
first mark out the scheme in chalk on the hull. Apply the undercoat
(Rylard Plus Undercoating Enamel) in a thin even coat. When dry
examine carefully to see that the colour is solid in appearance
and the whole of the work is well covered. If it looks at all uneven
apply a second coat. To avoid disappointment it is most important
to be sure that this solid appearance is obtained. Rub down the
undercoat with a fine grade (400A) of wet and dry paper, using plenty
of fresh water, until blemishes in the undercoat have been removed
- but, avoid rubbing through the paint film to the bare wood or
gel-coat. Wash down with water and sponge and dry off with a wash
leather. Leave the job long enough to allow the water to thoroughly
dry out. Failure to do this involves the risk of next coat peeling
off through poor adhesion to the damp surface. The whole of the
work should now be completely covered by a continuous even film,
smooth and hard dry. Remember that the satisfactory protection of
the boat is largely dependent on the care that has been taken over
this preparatory work.
- FINISHING COAT
- You are now ready for the finishing coat. A full coat of the selected
paint (such as Rylard Finishing Enamel) should be applied, but be
sure it is an even coat as an uneven coat promotes sagging. This
can best be done by brushing the enamel in one direction, then without
applying more, brush across the original direction and finally lay
off lightly in the same direction as first applied. Do not use too
soft a brush or one too long in the bristle, or difficulty will
be experienced in obtaining an even film. Avoid using a new brush
for the finished enamel. If the preparatory work is solid it should
not be necessary to apply a second finishing coat.
- ANTIFOULING -
Easily applied antifouling composition is available in the traditional
red/brown shade from Rylard and can be obtained in certain other
colours. Care must be taken that the correct primer is selected.
Best results are obtained on new work when two coats of primer and
two coats of undercoat are used, followed by two coats of antifouling,
such as ‘Double Shield’. The second coat must be allowed to dry
for a minimum of 12 hours before launching but can be left for a
longer period if required.
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GENERAL - Some general principles on painting should be observed.
Do not use salt water when washing down the boat immediately prior
to painting. When dry the salt crystals left behind will promote
blistering. Be sure the paint is well stirred before using and,
if any skin has formed due to the paint standing in an open tin,
strain carefully. It is not recommended that thinners be added to
the finishing enamel unless absolutely essential. All paint kettles
should be clean and wiped free from dust before using. Two thin
coats are better then one thick one.
Varnish - TEMPERATURE - Rylard
may be used in any climate and under the most varied conditions,
but application during damp and foggy weather should be avoided.
Varnish should never be applied to woodwork which has been standing
in hot sun, nor be left to dry in very hot sunshine. There is, of
course, no objection to moderate warmth for drying purposes. Best
results are obtained on a clear bright day with the temperature
at about 65°F. Rylard will dry extremely low temperatures in
freely ventilated atmosphere, but fumes from oil stoves, gas, coal
and coke fires must be avoided. The one-pack varnish has easy to
apply characteristics, it is quick drying and will only accept White
Spirits as a thinner. It is not recommended for application over
teak or linseed oiled surfaces.
- PREPARATORY WORK -
All surfaces to be varnished must be perfectly dry. Whether varnishing
new woodwork or re-coating old the final result will be more satisfactory
by a little extra preparation. A greasy surface is fatal. Grease
must be totally removed. If a detergent is used to assist this operation,
in turn great care must be taken to ensure all the detergent is
removed. When rubbing down, finish with either finest glass paper,
not coarser than No1, or preferably wet and dry paper No 360 used
wet. When using glass paper do not apply a new sheet without having
first lightly rubbed the face of it against another piece of glass
paper. This will remove any high spots of grit which would otherwise
leave scoremarks on the woodwork. Do not fail to remove all traces
of dust after rubbing down.
This may best be done by vacuuming
followed by a rag dampened with White Spirits. A “wooly” patch in
the grain (such as is frequently found in Mahogany) is best dealt
with by giving it a priming coat of varnish as described below.
When the varnish has set hard, rub down the fine pieces of grain
which protrude through it. The priming film has the effect of setting
the base of the offending “whiskers” which otherwise continue to
pull up regardless of any amount of papering. There will be no sign
of them in the following coat of varnish.
- PRIMING - Never use |
